To children of Wiregrass Georgia, sugar cane was the homegrown candy of choice. The harvest of the cane crop, and cane grinding time was anticipated by children of all ages.
Sugar cane has been an integral part of Wiregrass culture since it was introduced into South Georgia in around 1828. John Moore began the cultivation of cane when he settled near the Grand Bay swamp in Lowndes County. By 1876 sugar cane was one of the staple field crops of South Georgia, and an important staple in the farming and agriculture of Ray’s Mill (now Ray City), and the section. “Sugar, Syrup, and Molasses are made on a considerable scale in the southern part of this State from tropical Cane.” Hundreds of gallons of cane syrup could be produced from a single acre of sugar cane. In 1879 the Columbus Daily Enquirer reported, “The Berrien County News contends that cane planting can be made as profitable in Southern Georgia as in Mississippi, Louisiana or elsewhere, and that Southern Georgia syrup cannot be excelled by that made anywhere.”
In 1885, Montgomery Folsom, poet/historian of Wiregrass Georgia, wrote about the sweet childhood experience of sugar cane:
The Atlanta Constitution
June 24, 1885 pg 2
Down the River.
Now we have reached the point where the [Little] river widens out, and winds along through interminable swamps. Here in the autumn the mellow haws hang red on the trees, and in the sweet Indian summer great festoons of wild grapes and “bullaces” hanging in mellow lusciousness from the vines which have twined their tendrils around the topmost boughs of the tall trees. Fields of yellow corn cover the fertile hillside, the withered stalks rustling and creaking in the whispering breeze. These farmers have inherited a goodly legacy in these broad acres. The cotton fields are white as snow, and the merry jests and hearty laugh attest the contentment of the laborers. In striking contrast with the brilliant colors of the autumnal foliage is the deep blue green of the sugar cane. Through long years of cultivation in alien soil it has preserved its identity as a child of the tropics, and holds its green until the great leveler, Jack Frost, chills its sugary sap. Other plants have learned to adapt themselves to the new order of things, and shorten the season of their growth accordingly, but the sugar cane never ripens. If I have dwelled long on the peculiarities of this plant it is because I have experienced so many perils and pleasures in connection with it. Is there a south Georgia boy, to-day, who never slipped in at the back of the cane patch, starting nervously as he chanced to snap a blade, picking his way carefully until a selection was made, then cutting down the cane by easy stages, so that it would not crack loudly when it fell; carefully stripping of the blades one, by one, then stealing noiselessly out, ensconcing himself in a fence jamb and then – oh! the delicious taste of the juice! “Trebly sweet when obtained through so much peril. Hark! Ahem!” The boy springs to his feet and trembling in every limb beholds the “old man” leaning his elbow on the fence and watching him intently. “Ahem!” “Is it gittin’ sweet yet sonny?” But the boy is too dumbfounded to answer. ” “Well, I guess I’d better give ye a row, and you musn’t cut any out’n the rest of the patch.” Oh! Joy! In less than ten minutes every child on the place is informed that “pa has give us a row of cane to chaw.” And the old man stalks about in the potato patch in search of a late watermelon, an odd smile on his lips. He passed the same experience some twenty or thirty years ago.
If you want to learn more about the traditions, practice and science of Georgia cane syrup making, be sure to see Bill Outlaw’s essays at Southern Matters http://www.southernmatters.com/ where he shares family history and research on sugar cane and syrup production, along with other connections to the past.
- Cane Grinding Time Meant Syrup, Candy and Cane Beer
- Cane Syrup Comes to Berrien County
- The Cost of Living in the Confederate States
- Early Berrien Settlers Traded at Centerville, Georgia
- Possums Wanted
- The Misadventures of Mr. Stewart
- Lamar Fountain Preferred Swamp to Prison
- Nazi Prisoners at Moody Field Worked Ray City Farms
- Eyewitness Accounts of the Berrien Tiger